Case study
High-performance suede-like fabrics with INSQIN® PU technology
Anli partnered with Covestro to develop synthetic fabrics with a suede-like and nubuck-leather-like look and feel using Impranil® polyurethane dispersions (PUDs), part of our water-based INSQIN® polyurethane (PU) technology range. The result: more sustainable, breathable, and durable footwear materials with significantly reduced VOC emissions.
The sports shoe industry faces growing demand for more sustainable, high-performance textile materials. Many brands are shifting to water-based, low-VOC systems and consumers expect high breathability, lightweight structure and high durability. Also, design requirements are now more diverse, with growing demand for surface effects such as suede- or nubuck-like, matte, and glossy finishes.
In response, manufacturers are aiming to replace traditional PU/PVC materials with more sustainable solutions that look and feel like nubuck or suede leather, while offering breathability, low odor, and compatibility with existing production processes.
In response, manufacturers are aiming to replace traditional PU/PVC materials with more sustainable solutions that look and feel like nubuck or suede leather, while offering breathability, low odor, and compatibility with existing production processes.
Materials technology company Anli set out to develop a breathable water-based synthetic fabric with a suede-like and a nubuck leather-like look and feel.
Both fabrics would need to offer reduced VOC emissions, low odor, high breathability, high durability, and easy processing using existing production equipment. Anli wanted the suede- and nubuck-like fabrics to be produced without intentional addition of potentially hazardous substances such as dimethylformamide (DMF).
Overcoming limits in film strength, hydrolysis resistance, and drying speed would be key to achieving scalable, high-quality results. Additionally, especially for nubuck-like fabrics, achieving a consistent velvety feel and surface uniformity is challenging in water-based PU systems.
Both fabrics would need to offer reduced VOC emissions, low odor, high breathability, high durability, and easy processing using existing production equipment. Anli wanted the suede- and nubuck-like fabrics to be produced without intentional addition of potentially hazardous substances such as dimethylformamide (DMF).
Overcoming limits in film strength, hydrolysis resistance, and drying speed would be key to achieving scalable, high-quality results. Additionally, especially for nubuck-like fabrics, achieving a consistent velvety feel and surface uniformity is challenging in water-based PU systems.
Developing water-based textile coatings with high wear resistance and consistent velvety feel is technically challenging. In cooperation with Covestro, we achieved reliable processing, high hydrolysis resistance, and materials that perform in demanding footwear applications.
Through a technical partnership with Covestro, Anli used high-performance Impranil® PUDs to develop a textile coating formulation with good film formation.
Anli used this formulation to create a water-based breathable suede-like synthetic fabric and a nubuck-leather-like synthetic fabric.
Thanks to their water-based formulation, the materials offer improved sustainability, with reduced carbon footprints, VOC emissions, and water consumption – which also reduces energy use and water treatment costs. They are also partially recyclable. *
At the same time, the materials offer leather-like haptics, good breathability, and wear resistance. They have passed industry tests for hydrolysis resistance, scratch resistance, stain resistance, and colorfastness.
Thanks to these properties, Anli’s materials are a high-performance alternative to conventional textile synthetics in sports footwear, as well as in clothing, outdoor equipment, accessories and home interior applications.
Anli used this formulation to create a water-based breathable suede-like synthetic fabric and a nubuck-leather-like synthetic fabric.
Thanks to their water-based formulation, the materials offer improved sustainability, with reduced carbon footprints, VOC emissions, and water consumption – which also reduces energy use and water treatment costs. They are also partially recyclable. *
At the same time, the materials offer leather-like haptics, good breathability, and wear resistance. They have passed industry tests for hydrolysis resistance, scratch resistance, stain resistance, and colorfastness.
Thanks to these properties, Anli’s materials are a high-performance alternative to conventional textile synthetics in sports footwear, as well as in clothing, outdoor equipment, accessories and home interior applications.
I’m proud that our water-based INSQIN® PU technology solutions enabled Anli to reduce VOC emissions while providing high breathability and process efficiency. Together, we’ve shown that it’s possible to create high-performance footwear materials that combine improved sustainability with premium functionality.
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Key benefits
- More sustainable: Lower product carbon footprint and reduced water consumption**.
- Lower VOC emissions: Water-based PUDs significantly reduce organic solvent use vs. conventional products.
- Breathable: High breathability in Anli’s suede-like material.
- Durable: Long-lasting wear resistance in Anli’s nubuck-like material.
- Efficient: High process efficiency, lowering energy use*.
*according to internal testing by Anli
**according to preliminary measurements by Anli
